A FRIEND named Ruben Serrano Andrada contacted me by making a call to spend some time in the south est of Spain. A day after, I got on the train heading five hours south. Surprisingly, there is a ridiculous number of perfect developed climbing crack- On the other hand, local bolting kings José Sucina and Parreto are still continuosly seeking new untouched rock spending lots of their spare time and private money to expand the climbing areas. Their passionate work and positive drive are simply stunning. Chapeau!
(JUST CLICK ON A PICTURE FOR FULL-SIZED GALLERY)
la “Power” 8a. didn’t complete it yet
inside “Power” I left some skin in a mono-finger-pocket
Paella de Carne
the “Ferrari” Valley
sector “Ferrari”, next to sector “Bugatti”
la “Puff” 7c+
at the crux of la ‘Puff’
planing a whole new sector thanks to Jose Lopez! — mit Ruben Serrano.
bolting my second route, a 7c with a hard bouldery crux, bäm!
harder than it seemed. ended up being a 7a.
how do we ope this wine? a screw and a pinch!
great dinner, as always!
7b+ flash, loong route
Perea! the two easiest routes: 7a, 7c
damn, I was soo incredibly close to send the route: Zape (8b). I have climbed from bottom passed the crux and I have climbed to the top when resting at the 2nd bolt. just a matter of time.
free oranges and lemons as far as you can see
El Cabezon de Oro! amazing climb thanks to Jose Lopez! he started bolting this area about 15 years ago by himself. still today it’s one of the best cracks in the south of spain.
4 out of 40 places of friends or couchsurfers on which I slept for free.
on this hard open project, probably around 9a
climbing next to a giant dam
Lucas prepares himself for his hardest route in life!
the hardest section is right above the ground.
waiting for Pareto. He said he might have lost his car key
enjoying a juggy 6c
“look dad, no hands!”
otra vez El Cabezon de Oro
a brilliant 7c